Eat And Feet
Eat And Feet
London’s foodies won’t hesitate to tell you their city is the eating and drinking capital of the world. Why not check this out for yourself with a guided tasting tour? And if you’re also looking for fresh air, gentle exercise, a sprinkle of sightseeing and a full-on, five- senses introduction to Londoners’ London, the Eating London East End Food Tour will seem like heaven to you.
Eating London is part of Eating Europe Tours, brainchild of American expat Kenny Dunn. He had moved to Rome and decided to launch culinary walking tours to share his favourite food places and real neighbourhoods with visitors. His company now runs successful food tours in Rome, Florence, Prague, Amsterdam and London. Other London tours are Twilight Soho Food and Cocktails, Old Docks Historic Pubs and Classic Grub and Brick Lane, Flavours of India and Beyond. Each aims to introduce you to places you might not visit on your own, neighbourhoods and side streets you might otherwise miss and foods you might not otherwise try.
The East End tour is a unique chance to sample eight different eateries in East End hot spots from Spitalfields to Shoreditch, each serving great British food of a particular kind. You’ll also view historic houses, famous lanes, pop-up shops, mosques that were once synagogues, a former brewery now an arts and fashion hub and once-derelict walls now covered in extraordinary street art. The tour suits all ages and walk-abilities but be forewarned: come with an empty stomach, comfortable shoes and an adjustable waistband.
Yes, it’s a four-hour walking and eating tour, but the pace is sensible and relaxing, allowing plenty of photo opportunities and time to stroll, taste, digest and learn fascinating facts and back stories about this most diverse part of town. For centuries, the East End has been home to waves of refugees and immigrants, including French Huguenots, East European Jews and Asian Bangladeshis, all of whom left vibrant marks on the local architecture, atmosphere and edibles.
Led by expert guide Bethany, our first stop is St John Bread & Wine for an introduction to its award-winning bacon sandwich. This is no ordinary ‘bacon sarnie’, but the delicately cured, sliced and unsmoked backside of rare breed pig served on the restaurant’s grilled and buttered sourdough with a side of homemade ketchup. Or, as St John’s founder and chef Fergus Henderson proclaims, “the bacon sandwich of your nocturnal fantasies”. Henderson is renowned for his ‘nose to tail’ style cooking and that’s reflected in St John’s menu of revitalised meat classics plus some rather scary-sounding items like blood cake, deep fried lamb brains, ox heart and crispy pig’s cheeks.
Next on our mobile menu is the atmospheric English Restaurant. Warmly wood-panelled, with furniture upcycled from historic local buildings, this is the place to try updated versions of traditional dishes such as devilled whitebait, pan haggerty or steak and onion pudding, as well as real ales and country wines aged in the restaurant’s cellars. We were thrilled with our exquisite miniatures of the restaurant’s superstar bread and butter pudding, made with rich brioche and smothered in fresh, hot custard.
Proceeding to deliciously stinky Androuet’s Cheese Shop, we sample mature cheddar and Blue Stilton, which the charming French cheesemonger tells us are but two of 700 different British cheeses. As we leave, fellow food tourist Carole expresses regret that “you can’t put the smells of this tour in your article”.
Then it’s across the street to Poppies and a joyous taste of the nation’s favourite, fish and chips, wrapped in edible inked newspaper. Owner Pat ‘Pops’ Newlands survived The Blitz, served at Dunkirk and met the Kray twins, although for the past 60 years he’s more likely to be found dipping the deep fryer or arranging vintage memorabilia at this regular finalist in the National Fish and Chip awards.
This is followed by a liquid stop for cider and ale at a traditional pub, famed for an inflation- busting £4 lunch menu and Lenny the Pub Cat; a triad of fragrant curries at one of 50+ curry restaurants on Brick Lane; samples of freshly baked East End style ‘beigels’ and salt beef; and finally, loosening our belts one last notch, we make room for a divine slice of salted caramel chocolate tart and a cup of tea at Shoreditch’s trendy Pizza East.
As we bid Bethany goodbye, with some of us needing a little help to rise and roll out the door, Californians Carole and Michael spoke for all: “We’ve been to London many times before but have never seen any of the places on this route. The pacing was excellent, and we were able to taste many different flavours and take time to savour each”.
Further information: www.eatinglondontours.co.uk
Article by Judith Schrut - email Judith at judith0777@gmail.com
