If you have ever been to Jersey in the Channel Islands you may be thinking that the name ‘Ormer’ sounds familiar. That is because the original Ormer restaurant has its home in St Helier, the island’s capital, and is renowned for its Michelin Star winning cuisine. Named after the Channel Islands’ prized local abalone, the man behind Ormer is Shaun Rankin; a world-renowned chef and respected gourmet on the world’s food stage. Gaining his first Michelin star in 2005 for his work at Bohemia restaurant in Jersey, he subsequently spent 18 years promoting the Island’s gastronomy, winning a further Michelin star shortly after opening Ormer, Jersey. In the UK he is well known for his performance on BBC Two’s Great British Menu and is a regular on Saturday Kitchen; essential Saturday morning viewing for anyone with even the slightest interest in food.
Shaun has now brought the Ormer name to London, along with his love for the island and its local food. Having visited Jersey on a couple of occasions it is not hard to see why it should be the inspiration for a restaurant in London. The island itself is a really charming place, with many unspoilt beaches and a fascinating history (having been occupied by the Nazis during the Second World War) along with a reputation for superior produce, perhaps most notably Jersey Royal potatoes, and dairy from Jersey cows. Ormer Mayfair offers seasonal Jersey produce including fresh lobster, crab, oysters, hand dived scallops, Jersey royals and hand-picked shoreline foraged herbs along with handmade butter that will have you spreading ever thicker slathers over your bread (guilty as charged!). In fact, a high proportion of the ingredients are sourced from the island, as much as 90% in the summer months, according to the website.
The restaurant itself is a fairly new addition to the gastronomic scene in London, having undergone a major refurbishment prior to its opening in September. The extensive work, and impressive attention to detail, has resulted in a glamorous yet sophisticated interior. There is a strong Art Deco influence at work, with stunning geometric marble flooring, glass tiles, velvet banquettes and mirrored columns. Being housed in the historic Flemings Hotel, established in 1852, Ormer feels like it has established its own identity whilst managing to retain an atmosphere perfectly in keeping with the hotel and its history.
On the night we visited, the restaurant became steadily busier and busier until there was a real buzz about the space. Looking around there was a group clearly engaged in business discussions, a large group celebrating a special occasion, guests from the hotel who appeared to be visiting from abroad, and other couples and groups of friends out for an evening of fine dining. It’s always reassuring to see the popularity of the place where you are eating, although we needn’t have concerned ourselves with this!
Before our meal, we were treated to a glass of fizz from a selection that included English Sparkling wine from Sussex amongst Champagnes and Prosecco. The English wine scene has been doing very well in recent years and the sparkling wine we sampled stood up to any of the alternatives we could have chosen. Making a difficult decision seemed to be a continuing theme of the evening as we studied the menu. In the end, I opted for the Hand Dived Scallops with chicken wings, creamed corn and basil, whilst my companion chose the Jersey Lobster ravioli. Teaming scallops with chicken seemed like an unusual combination, but my empty plate bore testament to the fact that it really worked. The starters range in price from £13-£18, and include other tempting options such as Jersey Crab and Roast Foie Gras.
Our main course choices continued the island theme, with both of us choosing fish. I opted for Turbot with a pine nut crust with cockles and sea vegetables. The fish was sublime served with the sea vegetables - which are foraged from the Jersey coast. My partner chose Dover Sole with smoked salmon, potato and leek risotto and pickled caperberry salad. We also enjoyed sides of mushrooms and broccoli. The mushrooms were quite delicious and a much healthier alternative to the triple cooked chips we had been considering! We are both real food lovers (you may have sensed this) and enjoy eating out in a whole range of places, but you really can tell when the food you are eating comes from the highest quality ingredients, and has been prepared with skill and passion, which is certainly the case here. The meat choices include Iberico Pork, Roast Duck, Scottish Venison and Chateaubriand. These main courses are priced between £29 and £35 with a tasting menu available for £75. It is also worth mentioning that Ormer caters very well for specific dietary requirements and offers separate vegetarian and vegan menus.
The dessert selection at Ormer reads like a list of all-time favourites, including Baked Alaska, Treacle Tart, Chocolate Brownie and Apple Crumble. I chose the Cherry Souffle´, in an attempt to branch out, and I was glad I did. The dessert was stunning. A large souffle´ sat alongside a boule of cherry sorbet and a mini black forest gateau. The chocolate mirror glaze finish on the gateau added to the overall impact. It was quite delicious, the perfect combination of textures and flavours; with the sweetness of the gateau balanced out by the tartness of the sorbet, and combined with the light fluffy texture of the souffle´. My companion chose to round off his meal with a selection of British and French cheeses, which he enjoyed, but I am sure I detected a serious case of food envy after he sampled my Cherry Souffle´. Desserts vary between £9 and £16.
We desperately wanted to conclude with a visit to the bar -a really fabulous looking spot to curl up with an after-dinner drink, or coffee, but unfortunately the need to catch the final train of the evening dictated otherwise. This is a great destination for food lovers, and with a bar menu, and newly created Afternoon Tea menu, there isn’t any occasion unaccounted for here. The only thing you’ll be left wanting at the end of the evening is an opportunity to dine at the original Ormer in Jersey.
7-12 Half Moon St, Mayfair, London W1J 7BH
Telephone: 020 7016 5601
Website: www.ormermayfair.com