AMETSA WITH ARZAK INSTRUCTION
Based within the trendy boutique hotel, The Halkin, situated in Belgravia, lies the one Michelin Star Spanish restaurant, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, which was opened to replace Nahm, just over two years ago.
Ametsa with Arzak Instruction is a unique collaboration between Elena Arzak – voted Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef in 2012 – along with her father Juan Mari Arzak, and Mikel Sorazu, Igor Zalakain and Xabier Gutierrez. Ametsa’s approach is rooted in the traditions of ‘New Basque Cuisine’, pairing the earthy flavours and techniques of Spain’s Basque region with modern, surprising twists featuring locally sourced and organic produce from land and sea.
The unique interior of the restaurant was designed by London-based Ab Rogers Design, who took inspiration from the raw aesthetic of the original Arzak restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain. The focal point of Ametsa is a wave-like ceiling, created from 7,000 glass receptacles filled with a variety of different spices. The evening we were dining found the restaurant quite busy but the atmosphere was relaxed. There is no table turnaround, so diners can enjoy their meal at their leisure, without being rushed; quite an unusual, but very welcome feature in a Michelin Star restaurant.
Apparently the best way to experience the menu here is via the Tasting Menu (£105 per person, £154 with 5 glasses of wine paired specially by the sommelier). There is, of course, an à la carte menu available, but as the Tasting Menu included a fish and meat dish from the à la carte menu, it seemed like a good idea.
The journey through the tasting menu began with a scene-setting selection of “aperitivos”, beautifully crafted on their platters and platforms. The aperitivos are delivered at the same time, as a piece of cleverly constructed artwork, which takes up the whole table. Each mouthful provides something to delight the taste buds, with a variety of flavour combinations; from onion and anchovy to mango and chistorra; these morsels were quite delicious.
The entrées followed – ‘Scallops at Home’ is a variation on a classic dish that proves eternally popular, and with good reason; the scallops were among the best I have eaten. This was followed by Langoustine on a Bed of Lichens; another winner in my eyes, being a great seafood lover. Finally, in this section was the ‘Graffiti Egg with Green Sauce’. This dish was not to my wife’s liking, accompanied as it was by cold mussels. Whilst I enjoyed it, the contrast provided by the soft poached egg was certainly surprising, but then ‘surprise’ is something they do very well at Ametsa, as we were to discover.
We both agreed that the fish course was the highlight of the meal so far. My wife opted for the John Dory with Crispy Beetroot Sauce, and I enjoyed the Grouper with beans. We couldn’t fault these dishes; delicious in their pairings, and with a soft flaky texture that makes good fish effortless to eat.
The meat course offered a choice of Ox, Suckling Pig, Lamb and Beef fillet. My wife had the Suckling Pig on Carob Crumbs, a surprising combination, but one that worked. The empty plate was testament to that! I went with my curiosity and ordered the Lamb with Cottage Goat’s Cheese. The lamb was medium rare, and very tender. Combining it with cottage goats cheese was certainly unusual, but that is the joy of Ametsa: a willingness to be bold and different. Creativity is clearly in the blood.
The menu, which had been presented to us at the beginning of the meal in our own envelope, gave a brief description of one element of the dessert as ‘Mead Fractal’, this was a mystery to both of us. The only knowledge I have of mead is as an old English drink. The dish that was presented was a gift to the senses. A piece of art unfolds before your eyes as the dish is completed in front of you, and the result was a light, sweet clear soup, with a fruity addition. The Clove Custard, Toasted Milk and Pineapple Ice Cream that followed made this a most memorable and delicious dessert, but sadly one that I know I would never be able to recreate. You have the sense that each of these dishes has been through a rigorous creative process involving experimentation that only a truly passionate professional would be prepared to undergo in order to come up with something new.
Naturally, the menus at Ametsa change to reflect the seasons, but without doubt, you could expect the same surprising twists at any time of the year. This is combined with friendly service from a staff that are visibly passionate about the restaurant and seem genuinely excited about the cuisine. Their knowledge of the menu and the wines is extensive, which is useful when you are sampling something out of your normal comfort zone!
Ametsa with Arzak Instruction showcases an interesting Basque cuisine. The menu is highly creative and entertaining. Next time, it would be nice to enjoy a little of that Spanish sunshine too!
Halkin Hotel, Halkin Street, London SW1 Telephone: 020 7333 1234 Website