The Grill at The Dorchester
53 Park Lane, London W1K 1QA Telephone: 020 7629 8888
It had been a while, but we were very much looking forward to our return to The Dorchester on Park Lane. This hotel, and its various restaurants, remains a favourite of our London venues. It has always stood out as a unique and glamorous dining destination, and our expectations were high, as you would expect from a restaurant within this classic property. On this occasion we were there to sample some home grown British cuisine in The Grill at The Dorchester.
The Grill at The Dorchester re-opened in 2005 after a complete refurbishment. As you walk into the restaurant, Thierry Despont’s distinctive design makes quite an impact. The design references the Scottish ancestry of The Dorchester’s original owners, and also the ‘Best of British’ menu. Bold murals adorn the walls and plush red banquettes and ornate gold detail on the ceiling and doors add to its sense of opulence. A dramatic display of 200 red roses stands in the centre. We loved this bold décor, although it may gather some varied opinion amongst diners.
Soon after we had been seated, the champagne trolley arrived, and we chose a cold glass of Laurent-Perrier – the perfect way to commence any meal!
After we had settled in, we were presented with the menus and began the arduous task of choosing our meal. The Festive Menu was extremely tempting, but as this review isn’t published until the spring, this would no longer be available. I understand that they do, however, offer seasonal Tasting Menus (£55 for four courses excluding wines, or £90 for four courses with wine pairing) over the year to suit the season or upcoming British occasions.
One of the signature appetisers is the Home Smoked Loch Duart salmon and gravadlax (£22). I wanted to experience a dish that is so highly regarded with diners, and I was not disappointed. It was carved at the table into the finest slices; the taste was light and fresh with a unique smoked flavour that is the result of a lengthy process in the Dorchester’s very own smokehouse. It was perfectly matched with a glass of 2010 St. Clair, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, recommended by the Sommelier. My guest thoroughly enjoyed her Roast Scallop, cucumber and celeriac (£17). Cooked to perfection, the Scallops were succulent with a subtle sweetness; a result I never quite seem to be able to achieve at home, in spite of many years trying! Appetisers range in price from £12 to £22, and other options include Glazed Pigeon or Duck and foie gras terrine.
Studying the menu, it is evident to see The Grill's passion for sourcing quality, organic produce from around the British Isles. With Executive Chef, Henry Brosi at the helm, the modern British cuisine offers a contemporary menu, putting a fresh spin on traditional Grill dishes with timeless classics. The main courses on offer during this season include pork, duck, fish, veal, vegetable and beef dishes. Prices range from £20 to £49.
For the main course I was tempted by another of their signature dishes – Black Angus Beef fillet, chervil root, chestnut and citrus (£36). Complemented with shallots and chive mash (£5) and garlic spinach (£5), this meal was superb. The cut was wonderfully tender; a true classic. My guest chose the Grilled day boat Dover Sole (£49). The delicate buttery tones combined with a melt in the mouth texture found favour with my partner. Once again, the Sommelier perfectly matched our menu choices with exemplary wines from the list.
The wine list comes in it’s own leather bound book indicating the serious and passionate nature in which they consider their wines. Needless to say, this has to be one of the most extensive wine lists available in London, offering New and Old World Wines, and some celebrated, classic vintages. The Sommelier was extremely knowledgeable and if, like us, your own experience is limited, then why not place your wine choice in the hands of an expert?
Throughout the meal we were treated to various delicious Amuse Bouches. Each of these gastronomic treats, whetted the palette and introduced us further to the exciting delicious creations of Brosi and his team.
Given the choice we probably wouldn’t have selected either of the desserts we were persuaded into ordering, but we were glad that we took the waiter’s recommendations on board. I enjoyed Hazelnut Moelleux, Marscapone Ice Cream (£13), and my guest devoured her White Chocolate Cream, pistachio, textured raspberry (£10). We did, of course, both sample each others desserts - it would have been rude not to! They brought the perfect conclusion to a wonderful meal. Dessert prices range from £10 to £14, and be sure to save some space – they were amazing.
The Grill’s staff excel in their roles– being extremely knowledgeable and passionate, yet at the same time unobtrusive. With such excellent service, a comfortable atmosphere, and some of the best British cooking we have enjoyed in a long time, I defy the best ‘foodie’ not to enjoy this classic dining experience. We are already looking at the list of the other restaurants The Dorchester has to offer, and in the meantime would wholeheartedly recommend a visit to The Grill.